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Sunday, September 30, 2018

30 Sept 2018 Saint Hilaire de La Noaille to Bergerac 48 miles; 192 total



Breakfast at Gite Les Peyreire. Michael, Bernadette, John, Robin, Serge. Note Serge is dressed to ride with us to Duras. After Duras, we relied on John's map program which routed us on a somewhat indirect but perfect route along quiet roads.

Goliath, pleading for attention but disqualified as the repeat Dog of the Day. 

Bernadette and Serge have farmed 50 hectares since the 1960s, raising one daughter and primarily grapes. Serge owns his own appellation (now inactive), essentially a valuable trademark. Now his grapes go to the local wine cooperative. He raises malbec, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon.

Riders of a Similar Age. Serge had a fine racing bike, having no trouble keeping pace with our loaded touring bikes.

Tobacco Drying Barn. Tobacco has been entirely replaced by other crops, mostly grapes and row crops.

We bid adieu to Serge at Chateau de Duras.

Horse of the Day. The white one was polite. The larger brown one tried to eat my hand and bike trailer. Dogs are not the only skilled beggars.

Town Hall in St Laurent. We had lunch at the nearby patisserie where we met the Dog of the Day. 

Dog of the Day. One of the gentlest Golden Retrievers one could meet. 


29 September 2018 Noallans to Saint Hilaire de La Noaille, 38 miles; 144 total

From La Riole we were driven to our Gite La Peyriere, west of Saint Hilaire.

Route Changes. After picking up a local map, we discovered a bike trail alternative to take us to the Garrone River and Midi Canal Bike Path. As one path ended south of Langon, we diverted to Chateau Fort Roquetaillade. Privately owned and open only one hour per week, we enjoyed the view and sauterne grapes in the opposing vineyard that the harvesters had missed. Delicious. 

Major Wine Producers Everywhere.


Landon Mural

 Landon pâtisserie. We enjoyed pre-lunch pastries. I have to learn to bake these.
Former Windmill. We think. Feedback, anyone?


Promise Fulfilled? A pre-ride promise was to bike portions of the Garrone River Canal. We were getting close at this point. 

Cafe/Dessert. We stopped for a late lunch at the western end of the Garrone River Canal Path, the first restaurant. Nearing 2 pm, the plat du jour was nearly out. We enjoyed an excellent entree of fish, risotto, and squash puree, followed by cafe. We were confused about whether dessert was included and were immensely pleased.

 Robin on the Garrone Canal bike path. Beautiful early autumn riding: 75 F, turning leaves, no wind.
Robin leading John and Michael. Perfect fall weather and colors.

Me Too. This appeared to be a boat exiting a canal lock with two mothers and their daughters crewing, clearly in a holiday mood.

Potential Poster Photo for Mothers Against Drunk Sailors? Folks in La Riole could tell us the location of this boat.

Pro's and Con's of Pre-Booked Lodging.

The pro's are pretty obvious but the cons are not:
  • You have to find the place, on bikes, with often poor gps/web guidance. 
  • You must ride the entire route, too late to cancel, which limits flexibility.
Our first 3 nights were pre-booked. La Riole was the first unbooked lodging. We rolled into La Riole about 3:30 pm and stopped at a local bar for assistance and beverages. We discovered the entire town was booked for a 2-day baroque music festival. Our new Parisian friends (below) began calling lodgings and then accompanied Michael to Tourist Information (TI). After initially saying nothing was available, they called Bernadette at Gite La Peyriere, who accepted us. They wisely insisted that they pick us up in their van. About 20 minutes later, Serge appeared, loaded 4 bikes, Robin, and John  and departed. Michael and I remained, waiting for Serge to return. Then Bernadette appeared a few minutes later in her car. After thanking the TI person for the referral, Bernadette drove us to the rural gite and placed three of us in a triple room and Michael in the attic. Our stay involving dinner and breakfast could not have been better, the type of experience one hopes to find. 


Our Parisian Good Samaritans. 

Although Robin didn't know it at the time, Serge was on his way.

Dog of the Day. Tri-Color English Setter, Goliath, at Gite La Peyriere.

Gite La Peyriere. Consisting of 50 hectares (about 150 acres), this hoist was used to hoist bins of grapes into the trucks bound for the local wine co-op. Grapes have to be transported and crushed within 90 minutes of harvesting.

Gite La Peyriere Main House. Our bikes are in the portion with the tall wood sliding doors. Our rooms are behind the next door. The hosts live in the far end, and Michael was awarded the children's attic room. Seems he snores a bit and John insisted.

Al Fresco Dining. What a meal! Baguette, white wine, Bernadette's garden tomatoes drizzled with olive oil for the starter. Grilled squash and chicken in coconut milk for the entree, with red wine, followed by salad, an assortment of 12 cheeses, and then a gateau. The white and red wines were from their local co-op, all local grapes.

Larry, Goliath (an appealing beggar), and Michael, hiding behind the red wine bottle.

Friday, September 28, 2018

28 September 2018: Altica Port d'Arcachon to Noaillan 53 miles; 106 total

Another day with ideal weather, mostly flat paved trail riding, and virtually no wind. Our first 3 hours were in fog that occasionally felt like mist. The sun broke through about 11:30 am. Tomorrow, Saturday, we will cycle north to the Garrone River, and then east on riverside roads or the rumored bike path. This will be the first night without pre-booked lodging.

Foggy Departure on a bike path.

Delicious Fruit Stands in Most Towns and Villages.




St. Andrew du Teich Cathedral

Most towns have a war memorial, this one for WW 1. 
Site of a series of grist mills that began in the early 1700's. Robin and Michael take a break. 

Beginning a long ,paved bike path. While Robin, Michael and I stopped at the old mill site, John went ahead and missed the turn to this bike path. John returned after several calls and agreed that we had found the ideal bike path. 



Our Plat du Jour. Dory (local fish) polenta, with a drizzle of balsamic in the olive oil. 

Dog of the Day


Miles of paved trails.

The Château de Villandraut is a ruined castle in the commune of Villandraut in the Gironde département of France. The castle was built by Bertrand de Goth when he was elected Pope under the name of Clement V. Born in Villandraut, he maintained throughout his life a special affection for his region of origin. 

Robin perusing the bikes littering the entrance to the Castle.


At  Les Chalets du Gelat. I found this two-bedroom cottage on hotels.com. Originally booked for a party of 5, it was and will probably be our most spacious lodging of this trip.

Our  Les Chalets du Gelat Hosts. We purchased food for dinner and breakfast in the nearby town of Noaillan. Our cabin had a full kitchen. We could have parked all of our bikes inside and hardly noticed.

15 October 2018: Girona to Barcelona (by train); 20 miles, 710 Total

 In gernal, the route from the train to my hotel was about 3 miles, with no wrong turns. Once at the hotel, I explored the neighborhood a...