12 October 2018: Figueres to Girona, Spain; 32 miles, 650 Total

We arrived in Girona mid-afternoon. No one was moving on the outskirts as we entered, and Michael asked: Where is everyone? Then we entered the old town and there they were—everywhere—enjoying a beautiful Friday afternoon.

Nancy and I were in Girona several years ago, staying at the Casa Cundaro just below the Cathedral. Our group's lodging, Athenou Apartments, is essentially 2 blocks south, if blocks meant anything in old town Girona. Athenou is built into the old north wall, so we had to climb to the top, seeking streets that avoided steps while tolerating cobblestones. Fortunately, there is an elevator that saves climbing all the steps when walking, if operating. It closed at 8 pm. I had forgotten that detail.

So, here I sit, high above Girona, looking out at the rooftops with the Pyrenees on the horizon, listening to cathedral bells sounding the hours. The 2007 Tempranillo that Michael and I each bought yesterday turned out to be excellent, despite a dry cork. Our apartment is fabulous, our host, Alex, is great, what a great way to end a bike tour.

As I write, John and Robin are walking to the train station to clarify the rules for transporting their bikes to Bordeaux. Michael and I are chilling. We might take a ride tomorrow on unloaded bikes, always a treat after carrying panniers or towing a trailer.

But first, this morning we ate breakfast at the Hotel Los Angeles (Yes, odd selection for a group with 3 Southern Californians), and then walked to the Dali Museum. Dali was one strange, talented, prolific dude. So, lots of photos follow with a few comments.

Two Californians posing in front of Hotel Los Angeles. 

John, Robin, and Michael leaning towards the Dali Museum.

In front of the Dali Museum

Michael enters the Parish Church of St. Peter. Directly opposite the Dali Museum.

Main Floor Display in the Dali Museum. The Dali Theatre and Museum is a museum of the artist Salvador Dalí in his home town of Figueres, in Catalonia, Spain. Dali is buried there in a crypt below the stage. The museum received 1,368,755 visitors in 2016. 

Robin's Favorite? Something related to a person's stomach.

We have consumed a lot of bread and pastries on this trip. Robin usually carries a spare loaf in his panniers.

Couch and Fire Place?

Helpful Docent. Explained how Dali avoided political statements, but he did make them with some of his art. He said that while Dali and Picasso were friends and rivals, Dali avoided direct political statements and remained accepted by Franco.

Shows Dali's talent as well as sense of humor.

The following prints were from a collection reflecting Dali's views on the Holocaust.

Shades of the Mae West Exhibit.

John pulled up to the taxi. The passenger-side person leaned out, tapped John gently on the back, and said: Enjoy life. I think we are following his advice.

On the way to Girona. Nothing very challenging today; this was a flatter section.

Fumble Fingers/Operator Incompetence. Taking photos while riding can be a challenge. Spotting a potential Dog of the Day, I pulled my phone out of the jersey pocket, pushed the finger-print ID button, several times until it worked, then positioned it in my hand so I could hold it steady while pushing the photo button. Here I accidentally pushed the reverse image and took a selfie.

We see strong support for Catalan independence throughout Catalonia.

Dog of the Day #1.

Hostile Sheep Herder. As he passed on his four-wheeler, he angrily yelled, No photos. We were shocked, surprised, and unsure if he was serious, but he seemed so.

Sheep-Herding Dogs of the Day. The dogs were having a great time, leading rather than herding.

Departing, leaving numerous marbles on the road.

Two-Car Garage

Three-Car Garage

Dog of the Day #3

John Pays for Lunch

Our Lunch Restaurant. While it offered a four-course menu of the day, we selected tapas or small plates.

Dog of the Day #4. The gas station by the restaurant closed shortly after we arrived, roping off access to the pumps. They left two guard dogs. This one repeatedly jumped up on the fence as we rode away.

Stream Crossing. 

Old Stone Bridge.

Old Mill Remodeled into a Manor House

Views from our Apartment. Girona is a city in Spain’s northeastern Catalonia region, beside the River Onyar. It’s known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter (Barri Vell) and the Roman remains of the Força Vella fortress. Landscaped gardens line the Passeig Arqueològic, a walkway following the Old Quarter’s medieval walls, which include watchtowers with sweeping views.

Alex and His Wife. Alex owns several properties in Gerona, and some in Southern Italy, which could be an excellent base for a future bike tour. He often hosts cyclists whose jerseys decorate the hall outside our apartment. Michael Woods, a current top pro from Canada, has two racing bikes stored in Alex's private parking garage, alongside our bikes.

Stair Landing Jersey Display Outside Our Magnolia Suite at the Athenou Apartments.

Upon arrival in Girona, I opened my laptop, signed on, and got an email from Ciclismo Classico that made our day. They are booking 2019 tours that start in Saint-Emilion (north of Bordeaux) and end in Carcassonne. The guys feel pretty good about our trip. OK, we missed a canoe float on the Dordogne and three guides. We booked 2/3-star versus 4-star lodging, and our evening meals were less posh. Likely no one in our group spent more than $1500 for 3 weeks of riding.

TRIP DETAILS

PRICE

$5,995

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT

$900

LENGTH

9 days / 8 nights

LEVEL

Intermediate

TOTAL MILEAGE

281 miles

DAILY AVERAGE

31 miles

TERRAIN

Rolling with a few climbs

START/END LOCATIONS:

Saint-Emilion/Carcassonne

https://ciclismoclassico.com/trips/france-adventure-bike-tour/