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Sunday, October 7, 2018

7 Oct 2018: Carcassonne Rest Day: 4miles; 486 total

Every accommodation is a bit different. This apartment was unattended. I received a text with instructions and a code to unlock a safe box containing the key to the apartment and parking garage. A departing guest helped us as well. Our #2 apartment turned out to be on the top floor—good for views; lots of stairs for tired legs. He tried to rent us a space in the garage for 19 euro per night, but we declined, as we had already parked bikes in corners away from any reserved space. He agreed. Then he agreed to the 2nd night, and thus the 30 euro cleaning fee is spread over two nights.

Further, the champagne; white, rose, and red wines were complimentary, a pretty good way to get a top review. So, with the red I purchased at the last market, we are possibly overstocked.

Our host recommended a restaurant by email, but we ended up at a nearby restaurant. Most meals were good, except John's calamari was disappointing. With a full kitchen, we made coffee this morning and cleaned up our remaining goodies before touring the citadel well before the hordes descended. At first, I thought the season was over, but they appeared, complete with guides on microphones. We found the recommended restaurant and agreed to make a reservation for the evening and shop for lunch at the supermarche. Plans change.

After returning to the apartment, we got on our bikes and rode out to 5 different markets of various sizes. The good news was that Robin and I are learning to use maps.me, with John's coaching. The bad news is that they were all closed. Sunday hours, whatever they are. So, I spotted a boulangerie, we purchased sandwiches. Then the group opted to skip dinner out and purchase salads, pizza, breads, and pastries for dinner and breakfast. We returned to the apartment, having spent 30 euros. Cyclists, not gourmands.

Tomorrow, we plan to ride out to the Mediterranean, and then turn south towards Spain. Tapas is waiting. (Or is tapas plural and, Tapas are waiting?

Onward to the citadel. From wikipedia: citadel is the core fortified area of a town or city. It may be a fortress, castle, or fortified center.

 Quick—Can you spot the difference in these photos?
 Yellow Walls. The special yellow walls, linking Carcassonne with the Tour de France 2018.  (Stage 15 - Millau > Carcassonne - Tour de France 2018 and Stage 16 - Carcassonne > Bagnères-de-Luchon). The yellow was mylar, not paint, probably attached using a heat gun.

Recommended Restaurant. The restaurant that we are not trying tonight.

Open-Timber Construction.

Same building from the front. Often buildings were taxed on the ground foot-print, so this overhanging construction was often designed to avoid taxes.

Gargoyle. The green moss looked like a cloak.

Opposing gargoyles

Rose Windows. 


Per this sign, the Catholic Church is a cult and no animals are allowed.

Probably NOT advisable if you have had one or both knees replaced. 

Ear pulling appears to be permitted in French schools.

Seeking tourists.

The Hordes Descend

Dog of the Day. He really wanted a head scratch.

Timing Is Everything. Nearly everyone we meet says that we have selected the perfect time to visit. They had an unseasonably hot summer, the new normal.Seems that it's good for grapes and wine making. This local forecast is the worst of our trip.

If interested, here is some Carcassonne history, cited as the largest fortified walled city in Europe.

Founded during the Gallo-Roman period, the citadel derives its reputation from its 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) long double surrounding walls interspersed by 52 towers.[1] The town has about 2,500 years of history and has been occupied in different ages by Romans, Visigoths, Saracens, and Crusaders. At the beginning of its history it was a Gaulish settlement then in the 3rd century A.D., the Romans decided to transform it into a fortified town.[2] The Roman defences were in place by 333 AD, when the town is described as a castellum. The original walls were supported by between 34 and 40 towers, spaced from 18 to 30 metres apart along the curtain wall. Each tower was semicircular in plan and about 14 metres tall. There were probably four main entrances to the town.

The Gallo-Roman walls were rebuilt during the town's occupation by the Visigoths in the 5th and 6th centuries, but the original structure remained in place. After 1226, an additional line of fortifications was added outside of the Roman walls. The town was finally annexed to the kingdom of France in 1247 A.D. It provided a strong French frontier between France and the Crown of Aragon. During this period, the inner, Roman walls were largely demolished and replaced, while the new outer walls were reinforced and extended to the south. The new towers built during this work were mainly circular, but two were square. Construction continued into the reign of King Philip IV in the early 14th century.[3]

In 1659, after the Treaty of the Pyrenees, the province of Roussillon became a part of France, and the town lost its military significance.[4] Fortifications were abandoned and the town became one of the economic centres of France, concentrating on the woolen textile industry.

In 1849 the French government decided that the city fortifications should be demolished. This decision was strongly opposed by the local people. Jean-Pierre Cros-Mayrevieille and Prosper Mérimée, an eminent archaeologist and historian, led a campaign to preserve the fortress as a historical monument. The government later reversed its decision and in 1853 restoration work began. The architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc was charged with renovating the fortress.[5] Viollet-le-Duc's work was criticised during his lifetime as inappropriate to the climate and traditions of the region. After his death in 1879, the restoration work was continued by his pupil, Paul Boeswillwald, and later by the architect Nodet.[6]

The citadel was restored at the end of the 19th century and in 1997 it was added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.[7][8]

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