I recall this route as pretty difficult. We left Hotel Kyriad Bergerac on the south side of the Dordogne River, planning to follow small roads east. We happened upon a small bridge nearly 10 miles out, crossed to the north side and soon discovered a canal with a canal-side road. We followed it until it ended and were forced to route-find using John's maps.me app. This was the most difficult riding yet of the trip, with many ups and downs on isolated roads through forests. Saint Cyprien was the first town of any size where we stopped for lunch at a sandwich shop.
The weather has turned about 10F cooler, in the mid-40s now with a forecast high in the low 60s. A chilly morning start prompted warmer clothes, tights for me and jackets or vests on everyone. We cycled east on the south side of the Dordogne River over quiet, narrow but well surfaced roads before crossing to the north side of the River. The highway was busy but acceptable. A canal on the north side had a paved access road, which we eventually rode until it ended and forced us up the north bank of the Dordogne River valley. In general, this side involved multiple 600 ft. climbs and then descents. We eventually made it to Beynac about 4 pm, but found the hotels closed, repairs, or vacations. We proceeded to Sarlat, arriving about 5:30 pm due to Robin’s flat tire. Other than a slow overnight leak on a bike trailer tire, which was replaced before departing, this was the first flat tire of our trip.
We finally checked in, showered, and then cycled into Sarlat for dinner. The two restaurants recommended by our host were closed on Mondays, so we selected another and cycled back in the dark about 9:30pm. All in all, our longest day with the most climbing, I finally feel like I’m adjusting but remain the slowest of our group.
The plan for tomorrow is to explore Sarlat in the morning before returning south to the hilltop villages of La Roque Gageac, Domme, and then east to Soulliac along the south side of the Dordogne.
Dordogne River, looking east, as we depart Beynac
Perhaps our favorite type of establishment
Large Kiwi Orchard Along the Dordogne. No, though tempted, I did not pick any.
Our own, nearly private canal-side bike path (cars allowed).
Cottage Window
Village Church Chapel. Michael shared his scary thoughts on his Catholic upbringing in Germany: All the talk was scary.
Village school.
Chateau near the top of one of our climbs to the plateau on the north side of the Dordogne.
Dog of the Day. He approached slowly, walked past, and then broke into a fast trot, likely to his home.
St. Vincent fountain. We stopped nearby for lunch.
St Cyprien. We rode in just as they were beginning to take down the decorations. The only village hotel was closed, we called, but no one answered, so we rode onward.
What’s a félibrée I hear you ask? It’s a traditional Occitan festival which takes place every year in a town or village in the Dordogne. The festival, which has been running since 1903, takes place over several days and involves all manner of traditional events. The entire village spends months in the lead up to the festival preparing handmade decorations for the town .
Our local town of St Cyprien is delighted to have been selected to play host to the 99th Félibrée. The festival will take place over 4 days (28 June – 1st July 2018) so check your calendars and get booked up.
The inhabitants of St Cyprien and neighbouring villages will create the beautiful decorations which will line the streets, squares and alleyways. This will involve cutting, creating *300,000* flowers from paper and plastic which will be shaped into poppies, sunflowers and wisteria. The decorations will be strung up throughout the town and will cover an incredible 7kms of streets! The festival will involve traditional dancing, music, singing, meals, parades, typical costumes.
Beynac-et-Cazenes. In 2001, I walked up to the castle with Nancy, Harold, and Denise. Not today. We located a hotel, then discovered it was closed for minor renovations from 30 September to 4 October.
Beynac
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