3 Oct 2018: Souillac to Cahors: 45 miles; 332 total

Being in separate hotels, we compared hosts and accommodations. Having made these reservations on-line, I put Robin and John in the one with the breakfast raves, as they are big breakfast eaters. Their host was a bit surly: He's English and focused on money.

Don, our host, turned out to be great. His story: Left the US at 19, lived initially in London, worked 2 years in Iceland, various other posts before purchasing this hotel in Souillac. When he retires next year, he plans to move further south in France. Our continental breakfast was ample: cereal, yogurt, coffee, croissants, toast, jam, orange juice.

Our room was spartan but clean. We each had a separate bedroom. Their's was huge, with a large common room with a couch and separate bedrooms.

While Don suggested we take the most direct main road, we rode a smaller, perhaps quieter "D" road through some smaller villages, probably about 10 miles longer. Our luck with weather continues, about 50F to start with mid-70s for the high.

John has been invaluable with his phone and mapping program. I continue to be frustrated with my Garmin, largely useless unless following a pre-planned route. The major issue with phone mapping programs is they rapidly deplete the battery. John has a solar panel that helps. I have a small back-up  battery that we can use to recharge nearly everything.

Unfortunately, it looks like we might not be able to connect with Sandi's cousin in Toulouse. We arrive on the weekend and Davis and his partner have set plans until Sunday afternoon. Thus, we plan to ride similar "D" roads to Montech, where we can resume riding canal paths. Davis advised that we can cross Toulouse on the Midi Canal path, although it does cross some major streets. Then we will travel further east into France before following the Mediterranean south towards Gerona. We have had enough hills to convince us to avoid the Pyrenees on loaded touring bikes.

Don, Coeur de Souillac Host/Owner. Souillac lodging for Michael and I.

Chateaus like this seem to appear at the oddest places. This one was just outside Souillac.

Gordon Cathedral. We spied the cathedral on the hill and diverted into Gordon. Turns out we we at the center of a historic area. The clips from historic signs are inserted below.

Seems she took and arrow to the heart.

Perhaps the archer or perhaps he did not approve.

To the tune of: We are climbing Jacob's Ladder.

Gordon Cathedral. The following photos are inside this cathedral/church.

These magnificent wood panels were carved in the 1600's and moved to this church.

Dog of the Day. Visiting Gordon.

Adult Beverage. 

My plat du jour entre

Including desert.

Our al fresco lunch spot.

Post lunch, before tackling many hills.

Probably a brick factory.

Famous Cahors Pont. Fortified bridge.

Cahors Market. What a country.

2 Oct 2018: Sarlat la-Caneda to Souillac 35 miles; 287 total

 The route map is approximate because I wanted to take in La Roque-Gageac and Domme. I recalled a bike path on the north side of the Dordogne River, so we attempted to locate and follow that path into Souillac. Again, my Garmin GPS was useless in finding our pre-booked hotels, directing us onto obscure side streets versus a fairly simple, direct route

Unfortunately, not writing the blog at the end of each day means lots of the details go missing. Our internet connection was poor. I could connect my phone, just one phone, and no lap top. I'll settle for lots of photos to tell the story.

We cycled into central Sarlat to see it in daylight. We experienced crowds and can only imagine what July and August are like. Elbow room only.

Dog of the Day. Golden Doodle in Sarlat

Three Observers, looking down on . . . 

. . . Michael and John.

Sarlat Tourist Crowds

Really Big Doors.

And Narrow, Inviting Streets

Sarlat Facade

Classic Harley in a Restaurant Window

Sarlat Monument to fois gras

Three More Observers

Classy handicapped parking sign

12th Century Church. (Next 3 photos). Note the bullet holes on the outside, on the walls facing west.

Fun with the panorama function

View of the Dordogne from Domme.

Odd Extended Front Facade

 Yes, Likely Drinkable. No, we did not buy it. A bit over 4 euros per liter.

Our Souillac dinner, one pizza per person.

1 Oct 2018: Beynac-et-Cazenac to Bergerac to Sarlat la-Caneda 60 miles; 252 total

I recall this route as pretty difficult. We left Hotel Kyriad Bergerac on the south side of the Dordogne River, planning to follow small roads east. We happened upon a small bridge nearly 10 miles out, crossed to the north side and soon discovered a canal with a canal-side road. We followed it until it ended and were forced to route-find using John's maps.me app. This was the most difficult riding yet of the trip, with many ups and downs on isolated roads through forests. Saint Cyprien was the first town of any size where we stopped for lunch at a sandwich shop.

I have fond but time-faded memories of visiting this area of the Dordogne 18 years ago with Nancy, and Harold and Denise Simpson. The key is to stay together so that we can stop and take the numerous diversions to explore the hilltop towns and chateaus. I recall that some were only accessible by foot. Others will require short but  extremely steep climbs. After last night's dinner at an unlimited Asian buffet (the only open option other than a McDonald's), we are fueled and perhaps heavier.

The weather has turned about 10F cooler, in the mid-40s now with a forecast high in the low 60s. A chilly morning start prompted warmer clothes, tights for me and jackets or vests on everyone. We cycled east on the south side of the Dordogne River over quiet, narrow but well surfaced roads before crossing to the north side of the River. The highway was busy but acceptable. A canal on the north side had a paved access road, which we eventually rode until it ended and forced us up the north bank of the Dordogne River valley. In general, this side involved multiple 600 ft. climbs and then descents. We eventually made it to Beynac about 4 pm, but found the hotels closed, repairs, or vacations. We proceeded to Sarlat, arriving about 5:30 pm due to Robin’s flat tire. Other than a slow overnight leak on a bike trailer tire, which was replaced before departing, this was the first flat tire of our trip.

We finally checked in, showered, and then cycled into Sarlat for dinner. The two restaurants recommended by our host were closed on Mondays, so we selected another and cycled back in the dark about 9:30pm. All in all, our longest day with the most climbing, I finally feel like I’m adjusting but remain the slowest of our group.

The plan for tomorrow is to explore Sarlat in the morning before returning south to the hilltop villages of La Roque Gageac, Domme, and then east to Soulliac along the south side of the Dordogne.

 Dordogne River, looking east, as we depart Beynac

Perhaps our favorite type of establishment

Large Kiwi Orchard Along the Dordogne. No, though tempted, I did not pick any.

Our own, nearly private canal-side bike path (cars allowed).

Cottage Window

Village Church Chapel. Michael shared his scary thoughts on his Catholic upbringing in Germany: All the talk was scary.

Village school.

Chateau near the top of one of our climbs to the plateau on the north side of the Dordogne. 

Dog of the Day. He approached slowly, walked past, and then broke into a fast trot, likely to his home.

St. Vincent fountain. We stopped nearby for lunch.

St Cyprien. We rode in just as they were beginning to take down the decorations. The only village hotel was closed, we called, but no one answered, so we rode onward.

What’s a félibrée I hear you ask? It’s a traditional Occitan festival which takes place every year in a town or village in the Dordogne. The festival, which has been running since 1903, takes place over several days and involves all manner of traditional events. The entire village spends months in the lead up to the festival preparing handmade decorations for the town .

Our local town of St Cyprien is delighted to have been selected to play host to the 99th Félibrée. The festival will take place over 4 days (28 June – 1st July 2018) so check your calendars and get booked up.  

The inhabitants of St Cyprien and neighbouring villages will create the beautiful decorations which will line the streets, squares and alleyways. This will involve cutting, creating *300,000* flowers from paper and plastic which will be shaped into poppies, sunflowers and wisteria. The decorations will be strung up throughout the town and will cover an incredible 7kms of streets! The festival will involve traditional dancing, music, singing, meals, parades, typical costumes.

Beynac-et-Cazenes. In 2001, I walked up to the castle with Nancy, Harold, and Denise. Not today. We located a hotel, then discovered it was closed for minor renovations from 30 September to 4 October.

 Beynac