27 September 2018: Bordeaux to Port d'Arcachon—53 miles; 53 miles total

Approximate Route: Today's 53-mile route had a number deviations, including city traffic, quiet paved lane, gravel and sand surfaces, a 20-minute ferry ride and 2 hour search for our pre-booked lodging. Approximate due to numerous deviations.

Departure. Robin, John, Larry, Michael (left to right) are loaded and ready to ride after 9 am. The three San Louis Obispo (SLO) riders needed extra time to determine what they could carry and then store the remainder at this hotel. They will return by train to depart from Bordeaux.

Perfect Cycling Lane. After navigating heavy incoming traffic and numerous traffic circles, we followed a pre-set route developed on Ride with GPS and loaded on my Garmin. After passing through St. Jean on the D106, we rode southwest on this quiet lane.

Hummmmmm. While remaining quiet,  the surface changed to packed, dust and sand. After two miles and guided by a paper map, we diverted north, back to the D106, a four-lane, divided road with a bike lane. Robin on his new Bike Friday nears the end of the sand.

John leads on a typical road as we near the Atlantic Coast and Cape Ferrat. 

Michael and Collette. Our stop at a supermarche seeking an electrical Euro-to-US-two-prong  plug turned into lunch. As we ate, Collette, having completed her shopping, wanted to talk. Michael has the best French and offered a partial translation. She discussed her accomplished  professional children, climate change, and the upcoming craft beer festival.

Low tide on Arcachon Bay.

Approaching Cape Ferrat and the ferry to d'Arcachon.

Reservation Confession. I managed to waste two frustrating hours vainly searching for our lodging after 50 miles of nearly perfect cycling. My truncated explanation is not an excuse.

Given our initial group of 5 riders, I initially reserved a place that could accommodate 4 men and 1 woman. When Sandi dropped out, I changed the reservation to a conventional, easy-to-find hotel. Upon arrival in Port d'Arcachon, we followed the set route, ending at a hotel. To confirm the name, I opened my iPhone calendar, clicked on the reservation, and found we were at the wrong place, but it was nearby. We rode to the correct address finding an immense complex of mid-rise apartments of 3- to 6-stories and a map in the lobby showing Buildings E - N. I called the property number, and got detailed instructions regarding entry locations and codes. Numerous good samaritans attempted to help us, especially Jean Luke, who got on his bike and rode about with us. Numerous encounters later, we found the flat. Jean #2 arrived with his Dog of the Day, we signed on to the web with my AirBook, and discovered my mistake. Our initial stop was the correct hotel. We returned, checked in, showered, and arrived at the Wine Nut for dinner at 9 pm. Sheesh. 

Felt like and idiot, showing what can go wrong might well happen. I realize that Google searches your mail messages and inserts events in my Calendar. This cancelled reservation was re-inserted after being deleted, and I clicked on the wrong one. Now to figure out how to disable that setting.

Jean Luke, first of many helpful  heroes.

Jean, owner of the flat, with his Dog of the Day.

Sea Bounty. Eat local whenever possible. Delicious.

Michael swore it was the best hamburger he has ever eaten.

John chose the same shellfish special.

Yes, Robin's vegetable terrine is not shown. Served first, it was half missing by the time I remembered to take a photo.  

25/26 September 2018: Bozeman — Bordeaux

Dog of the Day. Riding in first class, Bozeman to Salt Lake City. Guide, service, or therapy? Didn't ask.

For Michael, who was seeking an IPA in Bordeaux. An unfiltered IPA out of a Moab, Utah, brewery on tap at Delta's SLC Sky Club. What's not to like? France and Spain will offer mostly crisp lagers. They reported local lagers were 8 euros at the bar/restaurant near the airport. To quote Bob Mundle, one of my 2014 Spain riding buddies, What's up with that? Acheron, tomorrow's destination, is a resort town and might be similarly priced. Perhaps best to drink wine.

If one has to wait 5 hours for the next flight, the Air France Lounge at CDG offers a quality mix of beverages and food. Alcohol does not help jet lag, but sunlight, a double expresso, and two cappuccinos should help me adapt to daylight and sleep tonight.

 

Stress Relief. Confirmation that my bike and duffel will arrive in Bordeaux.

Assembled. I found an isolated corner but soon drew a small crowd. Robin arrived and helped final assembly in the Bordeaux Airport.

Ready to Ride to Our Hotel. Great to be greeted by a friend who already knows the way to our hotel. Due to the 90 minute late arrival, we turned on our blinking lights and rode out in the dark into a perfect, mild evening. We are all four together and ready to tour. The others rode to the city center on arrival and then 40 miles in the countryside today. I plan to get to bed early and hopefully sleep well. The first night is usually easier than the 2nd.

24 September 2018: Packed for Flight

When planning what to pack, I try to balance needed and like-to-take while minimizing weight and volume. My packing list has been refined annually since 2014, with generous input from fellow travelers, especially John Kulig. I tailor the list to the destination and anticipated weather conditions.

Bike: 

·      Mechanical: A local bike shop suggested the occasional clunk in my Bike Friday drive train, after I installed an new cassette and chain, was a worn free hub. Replaced.

·      New tires front and back: As tires wear, the rubber thins and flats increase.

·      Clean, lube, and adjust: For the first time, I kept the same cables and cable housings.

Trailer:

·      Bike Friday trailers require minimal maintenance. On a prior trip I nearly forgot to pack one piece of the undercarriage.

Other items:

·      Clothes, electronics, and route info: I like paper maps, despite an iPhone and Garmin Edge Touring GPS. Pluses and minuses to each.

Given this is John, Robin, and Michael’s first tour, despite being veteran and fit riders, they opted to travel 2 days early to acclimatize, explore Bordeaux, and get their gear in order. Robin has a newly purchased Bike Friday, saving him $300 in luggage fees. After Michael purchased and dialed-in a new touring bike, he could not get it to fit in a standard shipping box, so he will rent a Trek in Bordeaux with racks and panniers. John owns a touring bike and will ship it. All three will fly into and out of Bordeaux, hence a return to Bordeaux by train. Given my trailer is the bike case, I will continue to Barcelona.
 

Packed Bike. After Delta tore the handle off my Carleton bike case, they kindly reimbursed me for a replacement, the Samsonite Spinner currently recommended by Bike Friday. The Spinner is slightly larger, accommodating more gear, but the weight must remain under 50# to avoid a surcharge. My packing arrangement varies a bit each time.

 

Packed, Upright, Ready to Roll. I selected the screaming orange case for greater visibility, and I add reflective tape on the corners.

Duffel Bag Items. I carry-on the 11" Air Book and often the helmet. All clothes are packed in individual zip-lock bags, making items easy to find. Worn/dirty items are laundered, folded, and replaced in bags. Side pockets carry sunblock, repellent, etc. If the bike case is too heavy, I place some items in the checked duffel. The helmet goes inside the duffel, space permitting, or I carry it on-board as a hat. Miscellaneous electronics and cables are placed in the shallow, net-top bag at lower left.

 

Ready to Travel. The duffel and bike case are checked, free, thanks to nearly 3-million miles on Delta Airlines. On arrival, the bike comes out of the case, I convert the case to a tow-able bike trailer, and the duffel goes in the trailer with ample room to spare.

Good advice. even in France, where most drivers respect cyclists.

Dogs of the Day. Seems appropriate that Eli & Lily, Nancy's standard poodles, are recognized as the lead dogs. 

Boarding Passes & Checked Bags Prompt Departure Anxieties. My initial two segments are on Delta, Bozeman—Salt Lake City, and then Salt Lake City to Paris CDG. In Paris I switch to Delta's Partner, Air France, for Paris CDG—Bordeaux. I should be able to check both bags through. Delta agents assured me they could check it through, but I had to purchase the ticket directly from Air France. Thus, no idea if I can clear French customs at CDG and transfer bags or I have to pick them up and re-check with Air France and pay more fees. Fortunately, I have hours in CDG. 

A minor tip you might find useful if you keep boarding passes on your phone: Take a screen grab of your boarding pass so you can display it without web access or if access is slow.

Finally, John Hedgepeth, a ride partner, is also posting a blog that you can follow here:

TheHedgepeth.blogspot.com

Thanks for reading!

Planning and Preview

Every one of my bicycle tours ends with thoughts about my next tour. I read touring cyclists' blogs, magazine articles, and enticing emails from cycle touring companies. The impetus for this Bordeaux to Barcelona route originated from two bike travel sites: macsadventure.com and ciclismoclassico.com. Many companies offer excellent tours.

 Touring Approach

My preferred cycle touring approach is to set the origin, destination, and arrival and departure dates; reserve flights and lodging for the arrival and departure destinations; and then book days-end lodging on arrival or the prior day. Route finding, flexing to meet group members' interests, getting lost, making repairs if needed, and exploring local cultures and cuisines ARE the adventure. Anyone can bike tour, not everyone should, but your touring approach must align with your preferences for an experience you relish. Here is a link to my Pecha-Kucha Bozeman, 6 minute 40 second presentation on various approaches to cycle touring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=_zyrjIA-l8o

 Touring Companions

Typically, cycle touring groups morph into new groups on subsequent tours due to conflicting schedules, varied interests in touring locales, and each rider's preferred approach. Relative fitness matters when considering daily distances, temperatures, and terrain. Unfortunately, age aligns to some extent with fitness. My approach to cycle touring is essentially messing about on loaded bikes for 5 or 6 hours each day, stopping for photos, conversations, food and beverages. No need to race to the end point to sit about in a hotel. That's right, no camping, no sleeping on the ground (yet).

Discussions for this tour began with Sandi Olsen, an experienced, talented cyclist from Salt Lake City, Utah, that I've known for many years. Sandi and her husband, Hardin Davis, were fellow members of Salt Lake's Bonneville Bicycle Club. Following Hardin's passing in 2016, Sandi retraced the tour she and Hardin rode from Salt Lake to the Northeast 25-years earlier, ending at her 50-year class reunion. Eliminating the details, Sandi dropped out with a reasonable excuse.

 

Sandi Olsen—Not Riding. Shattered femur, no ligament damage, relegated to 8-weeks on crutches. Mountain biking can be hazardous.

Nancy (my wife) and I opted to escape the worst part of a Bozeman's 2018 winter by renting a cottage on the Pacific Ocean in Cayucos, California. Cayucos is a seaside town about 10 miles from San Louis Obispo, half way between LA and San Francisco. I joined the SLO Bike Club (San Louis Obispo) and a nearby Tuesday/Thursday group ride. I met many compatible riders, about my age, none of them were slow, and three agreed to share this adventure. 

Michael Gille is 74, divorced, and a retired building contractor except when former clients persuade him to take on limited projects. Michael’s daughter is a chef, always a good influence. Michael mentioned that he was born in Germany with some French language skills—looking forward to discovering the rest of his story. 

 

Robin Erickson is 62, 6’4” and 155#. He is a former Peace Corps and USAID on-site development consultant, with extensive non-USA postings, especially Indonesia, where he met his wife, Linda. A vegan, he always seems to be eating, perhaps a “flexitarian” with a bird-like metabolism. Robin recently purchased a used Bike Friday, which will save him $300 in airline fees if he can figure out how to get it up and running.

 

John Hedgepeth, 69, is married, an avid sailor, and strong rider. John is a retired PhD who dealt with the math/analytical aspects of marine ecosystems projects, making him the most tech-savvy of the group. He traveled extensively for work, including France, in one assignment analyzing Rhone River water below the nuclear power installations. He also has some Spanish and French language skills. 

Michael, Robin, and John, all get up major climbs faster than I do, especially Robin. I’m guessing that Michael and John will be the first to join me for a beer stop. Hydration!

 

Larry Newman, 69, wife Nancy, tour instigator, atop Vrisic Pass 10-years ago in Slovenia, and still riding the same 1994 Bike Friday Pocket Rocket.

Atop Hyalite Reservoir south of Bozeman, MT, this is my new trailer/bike case. OK, it's an unattractive orange, but drivers seem to grant more room when passing. Dragging this up 1600 feet to the Hyalite Reservoirn was a good pre-tour fitness test. I still need to overhaul the drive train: Capreo cassette, chain, cables, cable housings, and mount new tires. Upon arrival, the bike comes out of the case, I attach the undercarriage, and my duffel/back pack goes in.